View Full Version : clubman estate brakes HELP!!!!!!!
nathharley
10-02-2009, 10:15 PM
rite my m8 has got a 1977 clubman estate iv been helping him restore it 4 awile now we sent it 4 its mot but failed on the brakes (drum brakes) we'av put new rear drums on it new master cylinder and rear/front cylinders and new shoes all round. they have all bin adjusted up and bled STILL GOT 2 MUCH TRAVEL IN PEDAL i no every 1says change them 2 discs and ur rite hes got them all but there in wrk an hes ment 2 b on the sick so he carnt go an get them so we need these brakes working sum 1 plz help us thanks nath:)
Gr4H4m
10-02-2009, 10:29 PM
Drums should pass an mot easily... mine did. Pedal travel was down to the rears not being adjusted enough. I used to adjust them up so the wheel was just getting some resistance to turn on each side and then the pedal was cool.
Gr4H4m
10-02-2009, 10:31 PM
could also try this if everything it new.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMJTndN9s1s&feature=channel
Gr4H4m
10-02-2009, 10:46 PM
oh and a general rule of thumb is
A pedal that feels spongy / soft / springy is normally down to air in the system.
A pedal that is long / low and then hard is normally the rears not adjusted or down to the bone
nathharley
10-02-2009, 11:10 PM
thanks 4 the advice m8 im gona giv it a try again 2 moz iv got the eazi bleed here so il give that a try i hope it wrks iv had enuf now
Gr4H4m
10-02-2009, 11:26 PM
if all of the air is out. Jack the car up and lock the rears on the adjusters and then try the pedal. if its now ok you know the adjustment isn't correct.
Then re-set the rear adjusters.
Gr4H4m
10-02-2009, 11:27 PM
Oh and have you put the shoes in the correct way around on the rears they should be a mirror image not identical on both sides.
nathharley
11-02-2009, 12:23 PM
hiya m8 there is a compensating valve that bolts on 2 the rear subframe cud that b the problem and cud it b removed an replaced with normal t piece thanks 4 all the advice
Steve
11-02-2009, 05:30 PM
It may be the problem but you can't just replace it with a T piece as it is a bias valve.
Steve
11-02-2009, 05:32 PM
How to bleed you brakes
Single Line Braking System
1. Remove the filler cap from the master cylinder reservoir and top up the fluid level as required.
2. Attach one end of a bleed tube to the bleed valve at the left-hand front brake and immerse the free end in a small quantity of hydraulic fluid in glass jar.
3. Open the bleed,valve about three-quarters of a turn. Depress the brake pedal rapidly through its full travel and then allow it to return to the fully released position. Hydraulic fluid should have been pumped into the jar; if not, open the bleed valve further.
4. Continue depressing and releasing the pedal, pausing for a few seconds after each stroke, until the fluid coming from the bleed tube is completely free from air bubbles.
5. Finally, with the pedal held down to the floor, close the bleed valve. Take care not to over-tighten the valve; tighten it only sufficiently to seal. Remove the bleed tube and refit the dust cap on the bleed valve.
6. Bleed the right-hand front brake next in the same way, then the rear brakes, finishing at the rear brake nearest to the master cylinder .
7. Finally, top up the fluid reservoir and refit the filler cap, after checking that the vent hole in the cap is clear.
8. If even after bleeding, the brake pedal is still 'spongy' or goes right down to the floor, this indicates that air is still present in the system, and the bleeding operation should be repeated. If subsequent attempts at bleeding still fail to produce a satisfactory result, the system should be checked for leaks, as air is obviously being drawn into the system.
Dual Line Braking System
The dual line braking system may be split either diagonally or front to rear. However, in either case, the bleeding procedure is similar to that already described for the single line system, only the sequence of bleeding being different.
The bleeding sequences for the various dual line systems are shown in .
The pressure failure warning switch should be removed from the PDWA unit before commencing bleeding. When bleeding is completed it may be necessary to reset the PDWA as detailed under the appropriate heading previously.
On models which have a master cylinder with an inbuilt PDWA, if a new master cylinder has been fitted it may have a plastic spacer fitted between the pressure failure warning switch and the master cylinder body. The system should be bled with the spacer in position, then the spacer discarded.
nathharley
12-02-2009, 08:41 PM
It may be the problem but you can't just replace it with a T piece as it is a bias valve.
wot cud i use insted then m8 thanks nath:)
Gr4H4m
12-02-2009, 09:05 PM
The valve is to limit the rear pressure so that you don't lock the rear brakes before the fronts which would make the car very dangerous.
I would think minispares would make a replacement.
vBulletin® v3.8.0, Copyright ©2000-2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.