Project Sc12

[Gr4H4m]

Well its now winter... and I'm going to start a bit of a project on the car...

So I have been sorting the garage out. I needed a work bench... so I got rid of loads of crap and got a small bench from Argos... seems its going to do the job..

A bit more clearing up to do and the car can start to be stripped.
:D

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/DSCF3947.jpg

[Gr4H4m]

So what is project SC12...

Well I wanted some more go in the mini for 2008 to compliment the handling and brakes.

I wanted a 60's looking solution. Due to the car having a low C/R engine I started looking into force induction. I looked at the Vmax scart and Jon Speed BMW Eaton kits. Also using a T3 turbo as 998's are a bit of a rage at the mo.

Whilst researching I discounted a turbo for heat, plumbing in oil lines and the fact that the power is very aggressive in its delivery.

The Superchargers seemed a good idea but the costs of the kits are very high and they run about 12PSI again IMO a tad too much...

I stumbled across an AUS kit that uses a small charger from a Toyota MR2, running about 7-9PSI.. seemed to fit the bill, so after a few PM's on AUS mini forum I started to collect the bits for the conversion. It looks like a Shorrock and its not too over-powering in the engine bay.

I'm going to keep a track of the build so it can be a bit of an experiment. There have been a few mag articles about bolt-on SC kits. So I'm going to try one and see how the diff, gearbox, etc will hold up...

I will try and show what the total costs and what extra items you need for the build, rads, oil cooling, carbs, etc...

So here is the SC12 charger
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/DSCF3950.jpg

[Gr4H4m]

needs a bit of a clean up, but the gears look good and the rotors ok... so next is the clean-up

[moddinmad]

lookin good that. cant wait to see how easy it is to actualy do.

[Steve]

Should be great when finished, You should be able to now pass the 1275cc boys. Hope you are keeping a detailed log of the project. Wot will the bhp when finished.

[Gr4H4m]

Well BHP is depending on the setup /boost Etc... The car has 46BHP (Fly) 32 at the wheels last year at the same place that RR'd Johns car... but it I know it depends where you get it done.
The Jonspeed test car at 12PSI was running 77bhp at the wheels so a bit massive...
I will be running 7-9PSI and not that bothered on the BHP but more what it drives like...

I have split the project up and I'm going to keep this as the project page for all to see:

Charger / Manifolds
Engine and Oil Cooling
Carb / Fueling
Ingnition
C/R - Engine work


Anyway got to go I have a meeting to go to :D

[Gr4H4m]

Got a new bit of kit today...

Halfords Pro Torque Wrench. I like it. It has very fine adjustment and seems very well built. With my Head gasket issues last time I wanted to upgrade the the wrench wo ensure it wasn't just misreading as it was a cheapo..

* 1/2" square drive
* 30 - 150 lbf.ft

So it wont do the very small stuff (I think the rocker studs are 25 lbf.ft) but it will do most of the jobs on the car...



details here
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_18 0255_langId_-1_CarSelectorCatalogId__CarSelectorGroupId__varien t__categoryId_76866_crumb_33958-76859_parentcategoryrn_76866

[Gr4H4m]

oh and the manifolds and pully, etc is ready just need to work out how to send the money around the world....

[johncaerwys]

Should be great when finished, You should be able to now pass the 1275cc boys. Hope you are keeping a detailed log of the project. Wot will the bhp when finished.
If all this activity on the car is so that you can pass us all on runs, and will be able to take extra comfort breaks, then there are incar solutions involving a funnel and milk bottle that should work out around £700 cheaper

[Gafmo]

Great to see you have looked more into it Graham..will be interested to see how you go

[Gr4H4m]

A big thanks for Gafmo, for sorting out my account on Aus mini forum... so I could contact the guy that makes the kit... Hopefully one of the first in the UK.. if not the first.. also the first on a hydro car..


John you could of told me before I ordered the kit LOL

[Gr4H4m]

been away this weekend so no progress....

[Gr4H4m]

ordered a fuel filter today. I was going to get a filter king but as I will want to run at the 3psi that my fuel pump puts out i didn't see the point in spending out the extra..

So I got an inline filter as I don't want any bits in the fuel getting into the supercharger:o

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/filter.jpg

[TONYELF]

If all this activity on the car is so that you can pass us all on runs, and will be able to take extra comfort breaks, then there are incar solutions involving a funnel and milk bottle that should work out around £700 cheaper

Would this mean you would have been relieved "naturally" instead of financially? LOL:D

[Gr4H4m]

well the the manifolds / pulley / belt / blow-off valve etc are on order, and should be on their way.....

hopefully pull the car to bits on sat

[Gr4H4m]

here is an old pic of the kit parts.. I will post some pics of my kit when I get it

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/supercharger009.jpg

[Gr4H4m]

John have you got any pics of the alternative mike bottle setup? I just want to see how it would compare.

[Gr4H4m]

been lazy today and not got anything done.. being doing some research on plugs... well its something.

[Gr4H4m]

hopefully will be less lazy tomorrow and get the car stripped..

[Gr4H4m]

or not... was lazy again, how ever I have got the kit from AUS and man I'm a happy bunny....

pics later....

P.S. Stiffed by HMG but still.

[Mark"H"]

Graham, you must get back in the garage like me as January is getting nearer every day for the Wirral / Llandudno run.

[Gr4H4m]

Graham, you must get back in the garage like me as January is getting nearer every day for the Wirral / Llandudno run.

You read my mind.... :D

Did a couple of hours..

stripped the exhaust, carbs, and head off the car. I need to send the head away for work, so its going to be tight. + sort-out how to move the Hydro pipe, order the rest of the parts, gaskets, studs, heater hose, fuel pipe, learn how to connect up one of those new fangled HIF carbs:) .

Next job is to take of the rad and remove the pulley, so how did you get on Mark.

[Mark"H"]

Rad out and engine mount removed. Locked up the flywheel and the pulley nut came undone easily with a 2 foot long breaker bar

[Gr4H4m]

The head is off to be machined ready to lower the CR.. I need to find a burette or syringe to measure the dish in the pistons...

[Gafmo]

HOrse needles are great

[Gr4H4m]

Hi Gafmo, well I think I can get one from boots a uk drug store... so off tomorrow at lunch to sort one out...

[Gafmo]

By the way are you sure you want to lower the CR...it would be best to check what you have to start off with anyway

[Gr4H4m]

yep as its a 998 its a bit high as I had 80 thou removed from the 12G295 head when it was running N/A still no head nods until I have measured the piston dish.

[Gr4H4m]

Well I have some sryinges and I' will try and measure the pistons tonight.

here the pics of the kit


Kit in the box:

Instructions, Bolts, Mainfold Carb, Mainfold SC, Pulley, Gaskets, SC belt, Engine steady for Rad side.

All of the manifols have been ceramically coated. Nice....

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/Photo-0131.jpg

[charlie_mini]

like the look of them!

[Gr4H4m]

well did a bit more tonight. took the rad out, starter and measured the piston dish....

need to order some bits form minispares

[Gr4H4m]

ordered all of the missing bits from minispares today...

New head stud kit (Non stretch), gaskets, pulley lock washer, exhaust studs and new nuts+washers, boost gauge and pipe. I was thinking of the Deano method of what you can't see you don't need to worry about....

[Gr4H4m]

oh the head is being re-worked going to run a CR of 8.8:1.

Going to get the pulley off tomorrow and give the back of the engine a clean

[Gr4H4m]

Well after chatting with the guy that built the kit, I have had the head modified, It is on its way back to me.... and will now allow me to run a CR of 8.7:1, which should be spot on...

[Deano]

im hopeing to run 9.4.1 with 9-10 psi of boost will see how it goes :)

[Gr4H4m]

im hopeing to run 9.4.1 with 9-10 psi of boost will see how it goes :)

:eek: should fly, however lots of stuff I have read has said you need to reduce your intake temp and run a cooler, not possible on my setup as the carb is after the charger if you want to go that high.. Most of the stuff on TM says 9.0:1 is high...

Will give you loads off boost power.. cant wait to see it..

[Gr4H4m]

heads back... so when I have a min I can start the rebuild...

[Gr4H4m]

A bit of an update...

- New Pulley on
- Painted the engine mount
- Cleaned the rear on the engine and painted
- Exhaust Manifold painted
- Cleaned the block surface up
- Greased the gear linkages ( I didn't Know there was a grease nipple down there until I cleaned all the crap off)

Should be able to start bolting bits back on tomorrow, once I have moved the hydro and fuel pipes.

[Steve]

Sounds like you are really coming long with it. Looking forward to seeing it.

[Gr4H4m]

Well its getting together slowly... I have modified the exhaust manifold as per the instructions

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/DSCF3953.jpg


I have mocked the manifolds on the bench look at the height of the SC manifold which means you don't need a special exhaust manifold.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/DSCF3951.jpg

I fitted the new Gen head gasket, and the new comp head studs... look at the thickness of these washers... (Before I cleaned them:) )

The new torque wrench I have got will need to go back as it doesn't click.... good job I had the old one to hand.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/DSCF3955.jpg

[markrally73]

cool, but wheres the blower!!!!

[Gr4H4m]

too dirty to photograph :)

[TONYELF]

I like dirty photograghs! LOL :D

[moddinmad]

I like dirty photograghs! LOL :D

why does that not suprise me haha

[Gr4H4m]

Well a bit more work this afternoon, but I don't think its going to be ready for W2L :(

Moved the Hydro pipe, I had to make a new bracket so the suspension will need to be pumped up.

Got a few things to work out, How to re-connect the heater pipes I cant see how there will be any room to connect them. How to connect the breathers back up, I have ordered an oil catch tank. Got to move the screen wash bottle.

Still over one of the hard jobs has now been done.

[Gr4H4m]

got back from the big smoke a bit early so been out in the garage..

Did a bit more and booked into A&B for Friday... only day I could get. So I will push during the week to get everything ready.

I modified the supercharger and re-mounted the hydro-pipes to the new location.
I mocked up all of the manifolds and loosely bolted everything on the car going to be tight esp the heater pipes, and air filter (I think I'm going to use a ram pipe and a sock to save space).

Still got loads to work out...

[RSP]

Good luck, I am sure you can do it.

[charlie_mini]

good luck mate...

[Gr4H4m]

blower pics tonight....

[Gr4H4m]

or not looks like game over....

[Deano]

What up mate ???

[Gr4H4m]

Belts wont line up...

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/3-1.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/4-1.jpg

after our chat I'm going to take the bottom pulley off and re-place..

[Gr4H4m]

well had everything off today inc the bottom pulley and its on as far as it will go, but it wont line up with the sc belts.
Using a straight edge from the SC pulley and the bottom pulley it seems to be out but 6.5-7mm. so either the SC pulley needs to be a further 6.5 mm towards the rad or the bottom pulley needs to be the same amount towards the timing cover.

The only thing is that the fan belt seems to be inline, so I presume the bottom pulley is correct. So I looked at the SC pulley and the tensioner. The tensioner is part of the manifold that the SC bolts to and they are inline with each other?? The only thing I can think of is that the heads are different to the ones in AUS but that does seem a little far fetched? ad the whole manifold on an AU head would push the tensioner and SC 6mm towards the RAD and make everything line up??? clutching at straws.. Maybe the bottom pulley has been incorrectly manufactured...

Might have to go back to N/A. not sure

[Steve]

Would have thought that the bottom pulley is correct, it looks like you may
need the pack the pulley on the sc and tensoiner out if that is possible.

[Gr4H4m]

Deano and I have just been looking at it.. looks like the manifold needs to be moved over 6.5 to 7mm. I will have to email the guy in AUs and see what he wants to do.

[markrally73]

are the pulleys onthe sc and tensioner on the right way or can you reverse them??
i will come over today hopefully for a good look

[Gr4H4m]

Well after some measuring and help form Deano and Mark, and emailing the guy in Aus their is a new manifold on its way.. should be in the UK in a couple of weeks. give me chance to clean up the Supercharger

[markrally73]

Great news mate!!:D

[Deano]

Great stuff he must be a top man:) Good customer support

[Gr4H4m]

Yep I fell bad that he has to ship one all of the way from Aus. I have offered him 1/2 of the postage as he has been so good in sorting out the issue and confirming that he made it too short.

[moddinmad]

so was it the inlet that was manufactured wrong??

hope u get it sored soon cant wait to see it

[Gr4H4m]

yep it was 7mm too short. close but not close enough for the belts to line-up.

[moddinmad]

7mm is quite a gap.

sounds like the bowling machines i used to work on "there accurate to within 2 inches" :eek:

[Gr4H4m]

Fitted the oil catch tank today and sorted the engine steadies very tight fit. getting ready for the new manifold...

All these small jobs eat the time up..

oh does anyone know where you can get motorbike screen fixings... I have seen some in Halfords but they were £10 of 8...
They were made of an Allen key bolt with a curved head and a rubber insert with a metal center bonded at one end so that when you tighten the bold the rubber squashes up so it can't be pulled through the hole. I was thinking they would be great for fitting arches..

[Gr4H4m]

new manifold on its way from AUS... yipeee

[moddinmad]

bet you cant wait. i cant wait to see it finished...

[Gr4H4m]

guess what came in the post on Friday...

[Deano]

Nice one is it whistle-in yet

[Steve]

I bet your :D :D :D

[Gr4H4m]

yep very happy #

Got a bit on at the mo spent the weekend at mums ripping the bathroom out.... got a few more weekends yet

[Steve]

Looking forward to seeing finished

[Gr4H4m]

big thanks to Steve today who popped around, messed up my garage and helped out today...

SC12 is now on, carb on, heater connections on, belts on, fan on, breathers on,

Need to sort out the RAD, exhaust, re-pump the hydro on the drivers side, sort out some interior bits, fit the boost gauge,

RR setup

fit and paint the wheel arches.

But made a big jump forward today. oh and the manifold fits :)

[Steve]

I bet it took hours to tidy up after me.:p :p

[Gr4H4m]

Well got another afternoon in the garage getting very close now.

Still need to wire the SC but the Relay diag doesn't make any sense to me. I underestimated the lack of space, getting the rad in was difficult had to mod the shroud to clear the pulleys

Still got:

Tappets to set.
Sc Wiring
A few maintenance jobs like change the oil ,etc. Will need to start thinking about booking the RR to get it setup.

[RSP]

Keep up the good work, you will get there and all the pain will go away when driving it.

[Gr4H4m]

heres a quick pic of the progress.... busy engine bay now.. not sure about all of the braided hose might switch the heater back to rubber??

It does need a bit of a clean

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/DSCF3988.jpg

[Steve]

Looking good, now ready to fire up ?

[Gr4H4m]

need to wire the SC up got the bits today. not sure about the + earth....

[markrally73]

should be ok as its only a solenoid so it should engage which ever way round the current is flowing:confused:

Looks good mate, hope it goes as well as it looks...........................:cool:

Cheers

[markrally73]

heres a quick pic of the progress.... busy engine bay now.. not sure about all of the braided hose might switch the heater back to rubber??



Does look a bit modern for you mate, Cotton overbraid would look better;)
Couldnt you find a paper element for the airfilter aswell, That pipercross will be as noisy as mine, You will need earplugs in now:p

[moddinmad]

looking good mate. hope it on the road by sunday :D :D

[TONYELF]

Does look a bit modern for you mate, Cotton overbraid would look better;)
Couldnt you find a paper element for the airfilter aswell, That pipercross will be as noisy as mine, You will need earplugs in now:p

Think Karen might shout over the noise (telling him to slow down ! ) LOL :D

[Gr4H4m]

mm might have a bit of change when its all running...

No-one spot the mistake on the photo... Just the maker from Aus so far...

[Gr4H4m]

might change the SC to this what do you think?

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/blown-chevy.jpg

[TONYELF]

That the starter motor? :confused:

[moddinmad]

No-one spot the mistake on the photo... Just the maker from Aus so far...

thats because noones fitted a charger on here yet.. lol... so come on do tell..

[Gr4H4m]

plug leads are around the wrong way....

[mervyn51]

heres a quick pic of the progress.... busy engine bay now.. not sure about all of the braided hose might switch the heater back to rubber??

It does need a bit of a clean

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/DSCF3988.jpg

Think i would put the plug leads the right way round and fit the rocker cover nuts or spinners to stop it p***ing oil everywhere !!:)

[Gr4H4m]

Well, Done a couple more jobs on the car. I have switched it to negative earth but I need a bigger terminal on the batt.

The SC is wired up and the clutch works.

Tried to start the car but no luck.. I think the fuel pump has packed in, because the glass filter wont completely fill with fuel. had a look at it and its gone all gooey around the seal on the pump. After 38 years I think its due a new one. Managed to burn the wire out to the dizzy after I put it on the wrong side of the coil opps luck I had Karen on fire watch.

I managed to get one from the spare engine.

not sure what fuel pump to get yet.

G

[Deano]

Facet red top are the muts nuts a fit & forget item:)

[moddinmad]

just spotted this on youtube...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cA4jTivS94M&feature=relateis

[markrally73]

A red top Fuel is a bit OTT for grahams application to be honest, A Facet solid state type will be ample plus a Filter King fuel pressure reg.

[Gr4H4m]

Car ran today!!!!! but then cut out I came in because it was getting a bit cold.

I went for a facet solid state low PSI. I noticed that it doesn't shut off like the SU??


Anyone know what the thin breather like plastic pipe is for on the SU pump???

Still moving forward.

[markrally73]

Car ran today!!!!! but then cut out I came in because it was getting a bit cold.

I went for a facet solid state low PSI. I noticed that it doesn't shut off like the SU??


Anyone know what the thin breather like plastic pipe is for on the SU pump???

Still moving forward.


The facet hasnt got a built in pressure reg, it just keeps on pumping so you may need a seperate regulator?

If the pipe goes to the inlet manifold? it is the vacum control for the in built regulator, ie when idling it shuts off, when under full load it gives full pressure, or i should just stick to bike engines!!! This a-series stuff is far too complicated!!:confused:

[Gr4H4m]

mm well it doesn't go to the inlet. it disappeard into a hole in the subframe...

mm I forgot the regulator today.. I presume if I don't fit one it will over come the carbs shutoff valve. ( I only got the 2-3 psi version as this was close to the original SU) This might be why it was iddling very fast?? I was going to get an SU replacement but decided that modern tech might be better, I forgot about this plastic connection. At least its not leaking now it was well past its sell-by

[Deano]

Have you reved the conkers off it yet :) bet it sounds like heaven

[Gr4H4m]

Karen said its too loud... well before it died...

I think I'm going to remove the breather pipes from the carb to the SC, they seem to be sucking a bit of oil.. which I don't want it to eat...

Dean do you know what the plastic pipe is for that connects to the middle of the SU pump? it looks like hard plastic breather pipe? Can I leave is disconnected?

[Deano]

I thinks its the breather off the top of the petrol tank ?

[Gr4H4m]

I thinks its the breather off the top of the petrol tank ?
nope I have traced that one this one was connected to the middle of the SU pump as was heading for the front of the car into a hole in the subframe...

[Deano]

hmmm ??:confused:

[charlie_mini]

sounds like your making real progress there mate, at least yours is running! (however long for! :D)

[Gr4H4m]

well it will start out of the blue but I can't get it to start when I want it to. maybe I have damaged something when I burnt out the wire in the dizzy.
I have replaced all of the burnt bits... maybe A&B can sort it. if not I have told it its going to the crusher :)

[moddinmad]

I have replaced all of the burnt bits... maybe A&B can sort it. if not I have told it its going to the crusher :)

you cant tel it thinkgs like that it just makes it worse.. tel him youll treat him to somethin if he works... lol bribery normally works

[Steve]

If your engine starts on a blue moon it can only be a loose connection. You could pop round and have a look at how mine is wired up if you wont to.

[Gr4H4m]

well after spending loads of time checking the ignition circuit thinking the same as steve, replacing:

the points twice
the condensor three times,
rotor arm
coil
plug leads
dizzy cap
plugs
checking the voltage to the coil
fuel pressure
checking the resitance accross the coil

I removed the blanking plug I put on the carb fuel breather an it kicked into life!!! on a regular basis... I think it might have been some sort of air lock in the carb fuel bowl. On Dean's advice I have fitted a new spring to the throttle to help keep it closed with the added suction of the super charger... now a happy boy :)

[Steve]

Glad to hear it mate.

[@lex]

well done graham. :) have you had a test drive yet.

cheers

[Gr4H4m]

no Alex, getting it ready to be setup by a professional... or I could melt the pistons, serious stuff getting the mixture and timing wrong when you are forcing it into the car...

Hows the car going?

[@lex]

no Alex, getting it ready to be setup by a professional... or I could melt the pistons, serious stuff getting the mixture and timing wrong when you are forcing it into the car...

Hows the car going?

yeh... i knew that. :rolleyes: melting the pistons is not a good idea.

my car is going ok... i replaced the lower steering arm bushes before hibernation but the steering still isnt right. :confused: some one said it might be the sub frame mounts. i was wondering if it was a difficult job to replace them ?

look forward to hearing how you get on with the setting up.

cheers

[Gr4H4m]

yeh... i knew that. :rolleyes: melting the pistons is not a good idea.

my car is going ok... i replaced the lower steering arm bushes before hibernation but the steering still isnt right. :confused: some one said it might be the sub frame mounts. i was wondering if it was a difficult job to replace them ?

look forward to hearing how you get on with the setting up.

cheers

whats wrong do you have a bit of play?? I had to tighten the pinch bolt at the bottom of the steering column got rid of the play... with your 13" wheels have you checked for play in the swivel pins or track rod ends...?

[@lex]

whats wrong do you have a bit of play?? I had to tighten the pinch bolt at the bottom of the steering column got rid of the play... with your 13" wheels have you checked for play in the swivel pins or track rod ends...?

yeh, there’s a bit of play there. I can’t really explain it. Thanks for the advice mate.

cheers

[Gr4H4m]

yeh, there’s a bit of play there. I can’t really explain it. Thanks for the advice mate.

cheers

could be tracking making the car feel strange.

[@lex]

could be tracking making the car feel strange.

i had the tracking done after the bushes were fitted though ?

cheers

[TONYELF]

Dean found my engine moving from side to side in the engine compartment when the steering wheel is turned back and forth. I replaced the rear front subframe mounting plates (about 40 mins each side if bolts go straight back in first time .They did not on one side and that took an hour)
The steering has improved slightly inasmuch as it does not pull to the kerb as much as it did before. They only cost about a fiver each so it was worth it.:)

[Gr4H4m]

thanks to Mark Rally's parts store I have fitted the boost guage. getting there.

[@lex]

time for some pics....

[Deano]

Pics Pics Pics Pics :D

[charlie_mini]

or vid of it tearin up the road if you've got one of them...??? :D:D

[Gafmo]

G'day Graham...i'v been away for a little but had to catch up..All looks Great when are you getting it Profesionaly set up :D

[Gr4H4m]

Monday is the big day. Just deciding the timing route was thinking about one of these, but not cheap...
http://www.msdignition.com/tc_18.htm

[Steve]

Do demon tweeks sell them. As they sell MSD items.

[Gr4H4m]

I cant find it at DT's.. but Real Steel see them down in the big smoke.. just not sure which way to go yet.

[Gr4H4m]

Well just been on the phone to A&B.... its setup, Dizzy set, new needle and a new set of plugs so they dont over-heat......

his comments were is pulls very well for a 998, but I came to an agreement that no power curves until the club shoot out session at the end of the month....

Big thanks to Mark R for trailering it down for me.

[Steve]

Great news, let me know how it drives.

[markrally73]

What sort of boost is it producing then??

[Gr4H4m]

Well its a massive transformation... Its quick, more than I expected. Its running about 6-7psi of boost from 1800 RPM. It pulls realy well in all gears. You need to use the loud pedal progressively as the fuel and air needs to travel a fair distance before it reaches the engine, but its like driving a different car.

Those boys at A&B know their stuff.. but I dont know the Power until the shootout just for a bit more fun.

I have a few more jobs to do tidy up the wiring for the CB, I need a new bulk head carpet thingy,etc but just want to get some miles under my belt..

[Gafmo]

I can say I'm looking forward to the RR results

You don't need Bulkhead Carpet..hehehehehe

[Gr4H4m]

mmm. all I can say is I have a big Grin.... :) I need to hush the noise a bit as I'm driving it to London in May

[Deano]

I could never get fed up off Hearing a supercharger:D Glad its running good mate;)

[Deano]

Im guesing 72 Bhp:)

[moddinmad]

im guessing more than my MPI

[ben92]

Hi
Good to hear you have it all up and running and tuned. Enjoy:)

Ben

[@lex]

made up for you gr4h4m... sounds GOooOD :D :D where's the vid :confused: :confused: come on just a taster.

cheers

[Gr4H4m]

Hi ben.... By the way guys its Ben's kit I'm running

Thanks @alex


Well all due to the fact that all companies in the UK are out to make more money for nowt I had to get the BHP figures for the conversion so that I can get insurance...

SO I had to sit down when he told me.....


I asked them to set the car up to 4500 RPM as I think kindly of the car and respect it a bit as its older than me... so very conversative and it made

61 bhp at the wheels..... looking at the transmission losses I had before I recon finger in the air of about 80 at the fly...GULP and all this at only 4500..... . A&B said it was still pulling at 4500 so plenty more left.

The guys at A&B know their stuff and its well worth a visit for any mini, they profiled an needle fitted 4 higher heat range plugs all for £80. if it were me and you have just got any kind of mod you will see as much gain getting it setup properly esp if you are like me an can just about bolt stuff on.

I will be doing a catch up of Bens kit as I can see it being very popular when you look at the costs of a BMW SC kit in the UK. Also we can see how my standard internals stack up.. but all I can say is forget your big valve heads high lift cams just get one of these on order god only knows what you will get from a big bore....

[Steve]

Made up for you mate.

[Gr4H4m]

yes I'm more than happy...

[Mark"H"]

You might just be up for the top A series there Graham.

Well done

[RSP]

Chuffed to bits for you mate:) :D , fingers crossed for a trophy!!!???

[Gr4H4m]

I doubt it I'm in the same pile as Mark R, Keith,

[RSP]

Bless you, strange things do happen. You could bribe the judges;) ;)

[moddinmad]

Bless you, strange things do happen. You could bribe the judges;) ;)

he is the judge!!!

[Gr4H4m]

what is it Sweets? tea? mmm BACON BUN....

[@lex]

will there be mushrooms... fryed onion rings????

[Gr4H4m]

As a bit of an update and in case anyone else is thinking about going down the Forced induction route:

Ben92's Aus mini SC12 kit You get in the kit:
-Carb to SC manifold
-SC to head manifold
-New bottom pulley
-SC drive belt
-Gaskets (Except head)
-Engine steady and bushes


Extra's you need:
-HIF44 Carb + cable bracket
- SC12 from a supercharged Toyota MR2 (I got mine from ebay they do appear in the UK but the cars were sold in AUS and the US.
- Gear oil (good quality manual gear oil)
- Depends on the engine but you might need a timing case cover without the breather. (Mine didnt have the breather). Or mod your exisiitng one to remove the breather. If you change it you will also need new gaskets.
- Heater hose, fuel hose, P clips, breather hose. ( I also used some pipe joiners as I left the exisitng heater hose in place and extended it.) I uses SSteel braided hose for bling factor.:D
- 3 branch Exhaust manifold if you still running a pea-shooter original exhaust, and stage 1 style exhaust...


BOLT on POWER?
This is a yes and no Question. It is a Bolt on kit but you do have to complete some mods.

Easy Mods (Can be done at home)
- You need to switch the throttle connection to the other side of the carb. Which is a matter of unbolting and bolting on the other side. You need to drill a small hole in the cab to accept the choke cable, and mod the throttle cable bracket to accept the throttle cable.

- You need to chop two lugs off of the SC12 that arnt required a simple hacksaw job and a file. You also file a bit of webbing off

- I cleaned out the SC's gear casing and fitted the new dipstick provided in the kit+ fill with gear oil.

- I had to move my Hydro pipes. This will only be a few of you out there... I did this by draining the system and removing the current bracket and using some flat bar I bent a new one to hold the fuel and Hydro pipe.

- You will need to change the head gasket to either fit a de-com plate or a modd's head.


Mods - not so easy at home....
- Compression ratio needs to be in the 8's. now this depends on what car you have to what your CR is now. I'm running 8.7:1. Most of the UK kits do this by a decomplate and two head gaskets. You cna buy these on thier own now from Johnspeed and VMAX SCART. I decided to have the head modd'd on the car. I sent the head to a guy on Turbomini's forum who ground a bit out of the chambers to lower my CR. I'm using a 998 with a cooper 12G295 head which has big chambers anyway. There is loads of info out on the web about C/R and the route depends on you. You need to do this step to allow the car to run without melting the pistons...



Fitting the KIT...

Well I have very basice level of skills and I managed it. The tricky bits were re-locating my hydro pipes, Easy now I have done it once as if needed I can post pics of my solution.
I have to think about where the heater pipes would run. Steve popped over for an afternoon and we soon had it sorted.
The rest of the parts bolt together and Ben provides a guide. There were a couple of hard to get to bolts. Ratchet spanners are great for those.

You will have to get the car professionally setup. I used A&B, who I'm very happy with. this cost £80, but it will depend on what state your car is in like points, plugs, etc.

What I'm running, to give you an idea.
- Standard 25D lucas Dizzy still with points(The Rolling Road will advise if anything needs changing here. You can buy a modd'd dizzy if need be)
- Lucas Gold coil (I had to replace mine and I preferred the gold look, sad I know)
- 12G295 running 8.7:1 C/R
- Standard copper head gasket
- Modded HIF needle by A&B
- NGK 7's spark plugs (As advised by the RR)
- Cooper free flow exhaust manifold, with minispares stage 1 1.75" link pipe and 1.75" Peco back box (Std 998 stage 1 stuff)

So nothing special most stuff you would find on your stage 1 998 for example.

As per this thread it took my 998 stage 2 from 33bhp at the wheels to 61bhp. There is more there but I only have mine setup to 4500rpm so you have another 1000 rpm to play with.
So as much as a 1275 stage 2/3 from a 998.... The power comes in smooth and full boost is available from 1800 rpm... nice..

[Gr4H4m]

mm forgot a couple of things...

You have to wire up the SC12 using a relay spot light kit...

and I'm also running a 2 core rad to be on the safe side as my three core was max'd out before.

[Steve]

Top write up there mate.

[charlie_mini]

good stuff... were's the 4hour dvd? bill solis style! :D

[Gr4H4m]

In my case it would have been 4 months :)

[@lex]

looks like it's been worth every second Gr4H4m.

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=uRWkIhwCB3s :)

what a great thread this has been. they should include the code to this thread, in with the kit.

cheers

[Gafmo]

have to agree has been a great thread Gr4H4m.
did you also reduce the compression slightley

Great write up also

[Gr4H4m]

Thanks all

Gafmo, I went down form 9.0:1 to 8.7:1 as you can't inter-cool these setups. Also the R&R guy retarded the ignition + I'm now running on Super Unleaded, just to be on the safe side. Its running at about 7PSI when you have your foot to the floor.

With 8.7:1 its not to bad off boost. I'm very happy with the performance, much more and IMO you would need to think about the drive-train, bottom end, etc

[Gafmo]

;) it was about the only thing i could see that you missed out mentioning.
I'd hateto thinmk that someone would do all that work and still have thier compression up aroun the 10 and then it brakes :eek:

[Steve]

Went for a spin in Graham’s mini tonight, and have say well done to him for going down a different route of supercharging his car. It went very well and had plenty of pull for a 998. Have to say I was very impressed with it.

[Gr4H4m]

Thanks Steve, I'm a very happy with it..

A quick update:

I couldnt engage first very well esp when the oil had warmed up.. I checked the clutch adjustment, which was a mile out.. so I have set it 0.50mm I hope that sorts it.

A&B took a look at the idle, the beathers on the SC were sucking so I was thinking the worse and there was a internal seal problem.. the sucking on the breather was increasing the idle.. A quick email to Ben in AUS to check the SC was ok and to check if I should have put them to the VAC on the carb and not on the breather... It turns out I was a dope and they should be connected to the VAC and not the breather. I have spoken to A&B and its all cool for the power run and then I will need to take it back to test after its all hooked up correctly.

There is an oil leak on the timing cover side.. I think it have knackered the timing cover oil seal when I replaced the pulley. Will stay like that until after Sat and then I can change it..

Hopefully these are the only teething probs before Himley.

[Gr4H4m]

Ok an bit of an update.

The timing cover oil seal was shot there was a good gap arround the pulley, so its being changed.

So anyone reading this and thinking of the conversion change the seal when you fit the pulley to save having to strip everything off.

I have stripped all of the rad etc off which is a bit harder now the SC is fitted for space as I have a Mk1 style Rad cowling. Still everything it off cleaned and painted. Just waiting for minispares to delvier some new bolts so I dont have to re-use the old rusty ones.

The clutch looks like its seen better days, I lost gears again driving home.

Steve has kindly offered to show me how to change it at the weekend. We are alos going to check the remote change as its always been very stiff to get in and out of gear.

Then back to A&B so they can correct my plumbing problem as I have put the breather from the SC into the HIF44 breather, this should be connected to the VAC. Then it will need to be checked for mixture. Everyone who watched my car on the rollers must have noticed the over fueling, this is why.

A&B noticed on the RR that the points had closed up, prob wear in the dizzy.... the points are going to be changed for an Aldon Ignitor. and the timing re-set. There are alsorts of reasons why dizzys are not best placed on forced induction but I'm going lower power off boost and safe on boost and live with it for the summer. should give the wallet and mind a chance to catch up before I decide to change it for something else....

[Gr4H4m]

A massive thanks to Steve today who changed the clutch and sorted the remote gear change, now feels sweet as a nut.

Clutch adjustment on them pre-Verto's are a bit of a pain to get bob on.

Thanks Mate.

[Steve]

Any time mate. Only happy to help out.

[Steve]

How long did it take to tidy the garage this time.

[Gr4H4m]

about 30mins you did a much better job this time :)

[Gr4H4m]

Well the electronic points replacement is a must. A new Ignitor kit fitted and back upto 62 bhp...shame about the RR day performance but...

idles at a nice 1000 rpm nice...

[Gr4H4m]

The clutch problem was down to wear on the ball... a nice flat spot.. the spare engine had a bent arm, Steve popped over and we swapped it now a good clutch pedal and gears.... best its ever been.

So look out for a new arm at the show on Sunday.

A big thanks to Steve again.... garage not so messy this time :)

[Steve]

I did not get any tools out this time.

[Gr4H4m]

Well after the Himley run I'm having a quick look at the cooling, stood still the temp wanted to climb...

I have a second-hand two core. It was fine whilst the car was at speed, I think this is due to the 2 core moving more water in the rad faster and the high speed causing a large amount of air to be forced over the rad, cooling the water...

The two cores allow the water to move faster gave a problem in traffic as I dont think the plastic fan could push the air fast enough to keep it cool. This was the opposite when I ran a three core rad, which would sit in traffic all day but at speed would heat up as the water wasn't getting around the system fast enough...
Anyway thats my idea dont know if its correct...

Anyway, as the London to Brighton is very close I was thinking:

- add some water wetter
- Get a new two core as a just in case there are any blockages... I have flushed it with the hose and the water flows freely but I have no way of knowing if the amount of water flowing is correct Its probably perfecto but I dont want to strip this rad again its a big pain with the Mk1/2 rad install..
Does anyone know if thee is a test for 2cores?
- going to run a four blade or tropical just need to check for space. these move more air and sit closer to the rad. just need to get clearance for the sc pulley.
- not sure what stat to get. I have an 82deg at the mo, any ideas?

[Gr4H4m]

well Me and the mini had a fight last night. he won..

I hate those Mk1 rad cowlings. Deano kindly welded a new nut on mine so I could make sure nothing moved.

I have fitted a new 2 core three times yesterday,

1) Fitted the four blade fan then the rad only to find out its too thin and might catch the sc pulley.. off it all came
2) Fitted my old hot climate 6 blade then the rad to find out I only put two bolts in the fan, (I was testing the fit) off it all came
3) fitted everything only to cross thread one of the mounting bolts, off it all came again to clean it up....

During all this I managed to bend some rad fins. its just too tight with verything in there.

Then I found out that the new fan belt is too long.... not my day yesterday.

Fitted a Deano Tweeks breather pipe looks the dogs.

[Gr4H4m]

well looking at l2b the car averaged about 29 miles to the gallon... only problem is its now using super and thats about 1.29 a litre... GULP... I did 588 miles and spent £118.34 on petrol.. might beable to get that up a bit without the exhaust gasket blowing so better than I was thinking...

not sure what it did when it was NA.

Getting super on the lakes run might be a pain.

[Steve]

( Getting super on the lakes run might be a pain. )

No problem there is a big petrol station about 4 miles from the camp site. 29 to the gallon is ok. I think I am getting about 25 to the gallon.

[Deano]

Im getting about 40mpg:eek: will do 106mph and not to bad off the mark either so cant have a bad compromise;)

[TNY666]

Heya guys, I have a 1975 clubman 1100 that I'm in the process of supercharging with a sc12. This site has been a huge help to me so thanks :D.. just a couple of questions if ya don't mind ....
!st of all .. there are two pipes on the top of the charger .. what do these join up too? and 2nd ... ur blower is so freaking clean ! .. how did you manage that!?

[Deano]

I reackon he Licked it clean :) (i would)

[Gr4H4m]

Heya guys, I have a 1975 clubman 1100 that I'm in the process of supercharging with a sc12. This site has been a huge help to me so thanks :D.. just a couple of questions if ya don't mind ....
!st of all .. there are two pipes on the top of the charger .. what do these join up too? and 2nd ... ur blower is so freaking clean ! .. how did you manage that!?

No licking the SC:D Just used a wire brush on a drill:p

You need to connect all of the SC breathers (Which suck when its running) to the VAC connection on the carb. I dont use a vac advance on the dizzy as its broken. some of the old pics of the car had the breather to the side of the carb which was my mistake and the car will idle very high.

[TNY666]

lol .. if ur keen Deano u can lick my sc clean ^^ .. kk that makes sense .. what did you do as far as the clutch wiring?..

[Deano]

Lmao :D :)

[Gr4H4m]

I wired the clutch as per bens instructions. I have used a spot light relay and a switch as shown.

The spotlight relay came with instructions so just double check the terminal numbers I have put below, as I was going to wire it + earth but decided to changed the car to - earth to give a better spark...

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/wdiag.jpg

[Deano]

I wired the clutch as per bens instructions. I have used a spot light relay and a switch as shown.

The spotlight relay came with instructions so just double check the terminal numbers I have put below, as I was going to wire it + earth but decided to changed the car to - earth to give a better spark...

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/wdiag.jpg


Can you tell what it is yet:)

[Gr4H4m]

Can you tell what it is yet:)

supercharged FUN..:D

[Gr4H4m]

TNY666. Don't forget to kepp us updated on your project would love to see some pics and what power you get from the kit.

Pics, pics, pics

WE love pics. :)

[TNY666]

^^ Thanks for that diagram ... .. what does the car run like when u switch it off? ..

i gots some pics of what i have so far .. lol .. i have cleaned the sc but it still looks filthy :(http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/7765/img0082ql4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[TNY666]

oh forgot to mention i also have a 12g295 head for it too .. :D

[Gr4H4m]

love the manifold the SC looks cleaner than mine. oh it will run with the Sc off but like a DOG.... I drove it this weekend once when I forgot to switch it on... I did think something was broken. hit the switch and woosh everything back to normal..

[TNY666]

lol .. the charger just looks clean with the flash... was reading thru this forum again and noticed the engine steady that came with your kit .. i don't have one of them :'( .. are they available separately?.. also the instructions.. are they available anywhere online at all? .. I'm chasing up the guy that i got it off but he is taking his time about it and i really wanna get it all done ^^ .. i miss driving my saloon

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/1848/img0199xo2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[Gr4H4m]

The instructions came with the kit a peice of paper I can dig it out if you want. Ben does sometimes take a couple of days to get back to you but I presume he is a busy man. The steady came with the kit. You are also missing the bottom pulley form the pic?

If you have a question just give us a shout, you dont really need the instructions as long as you follow things in a certain order its a bolt on, if you get the wrong order it wont go together or is very difficult to get to bolts etc. This is what I do for my round nose, you might have more space in the clubby


- Swap the throttle cable connection to the other side of the carb.
- Drill a small home in the tab above the choke conection so I could mount the choke cable.
- I used a standard throttle cable bracket between the carb and the inlet to hold the throttle cable I think I truned it arround and re-bent the tab to hold it in place, shout if you need pics + a long throttle cable.

- I had the CR checked in the head I had mine adjusted to 8.7:1 but you need to read up on CR if you dont know or take Bens advice, as you need to make sure you are low enough for the boost you are running. I also use Super Plus petrol 97-98 RON to help with intake temp.

- With the head on the bench offer up the exhaust manifold (Extractors I think you guys call them) and the charger manifold, you will notice you have to trim some off those lovely extractors you have to get them to fit, this is normal.

- Remove the batt.
- Strip off the RAD
- Strip off the starter
- Support the engine, make sure you are safe here and use axle stands, you might find its much easier if the car is in the air on stands and then remove the engine mount.
- Bend the lock tab back on the pulley
- Lock the fly wheel with a suitable device I used a big screw-driver and undo the bottom pulley bolt.
- Remove the pulley.
- I would also remove the timming cover and replace the oil seal and gasket, as the seal leaked when I did mine and then you have to strip the rad etc off again.
- Re-fit the pulley, make sure it is all of the way on there might be some over spray/paint on the inside you will have to clean off, then re-fit the lock tab and I also added some thread lock to the bolt.
- Torque the bolt the the correct setting.
- Re-fit the engine mount. For the cost I used new bolts and nuts so they were easy to do-up.
- Bolt the head on and torque down.

The next bit I found this the easy way to do with your clubby you might have more space.

Undo the engine steady on the left side just below the head.
- Put the extractors on
- Put the SC manifold on and bolt down with washers
- Use a quick grip to push the engine forward from the bulk head to the head just helps give you a inch or two.
- Now if you have the space you can bolt the carb to the inlet, inlet to the SC, now add the choke and throttle cable and bolt the whole lot to the SC manifold, slide the long bolt into the hole on the SC, (so you just need to get the nut on the otherside when its all bolted on. You can just get to it with a wobble bar). Bolt the whole lot onto the SC manifold, and tighten dont forget the gaskets and the long bolt.


If you cant get the whole setup past the bulk head. I found it easier to,
-Bolt carb to inlet and conect throttle and choke cables,
place the SC in the engine bay with the bolt in and rest against the bulk head it cant fall any lower anyway, then you can move it about to bolt the carb inlet manifold on (ratchet spanners are a god send here). Then position the SC to the SC manifold and get the five SC bolts on loose, dont foget the gaskets. then tighten all together it helps to have an assitant but you can do it on you own. Dont forget the large bottom bolt.

- Put the SC belt on and tighten with the adjuster and then lock the tensioner wheel with the bolt in the middle.

- Re-fit the RAD, fan belt and add coolant.

- Wire up the SC I used a plug so I can disconnet it in the future.

- Dont forget to either add a boost guage or fit the plug in the kit to the SC manifold.

- Put the fuel lines, breather, and join the VAC connections, carb, dizzy and SC.

- Re-fit the starter

- Fit the engine steadies, left and right, (the new one in the kit).

- Fit an air cleaner, I found it easy to fit a RAM pipe and Sock.

- You will also have to run longer heater pipes, I used some joiners and extended the current ones with braided hoses, for that bling factor:D

I also fitted and ignitor and gold coil, + NGK R 7's plugs or should I say the rolling road did. I also just got the car to start we trailered it to the Rolling Road as I needed them to set the mixture as you will need a new needle, and timing adjusted to avoid det, or being too lean.

I think thas it. If you need any pics or I've forgotton anything just give us a shout, but BEN92 is the MAN so what he says goes so if I've missed anything or he says do somthing different you would be a fool not to follow his advice.

You will love it once on. its a great bit of kit you will never go back to NA once you have FI.;)

[Gr4H4m]

PS nice car and I love the wheels.

[ben92]

Hi
TNY666 I am able to supply a new engine steady and crank pulley if you are not able to get them.
Who did you buy it from? I have sold 4 I think, kits to NZ and heard 2 are on cars but the others not sure.
Your SC manifold has been modified so you probably won't have to mod your exhaust to fit or it is a copy.
If you have any queries just ask.:)
Cheers Ben

[TNY666]

Heya guys .. Thanks for all this Advice ... I'm so printing this off :D .. ahh i got the kit of a guy call Jai Monaghan ... aka Minicranks.

The kit did come with a pulley .. just missing the instructions and engine stabiliser bar from what i gather ... i have mocked up the setup on the bench as Graham did in this forum and the lcbs don't fit so I'm going to have to take some meat off them...
minicranks also gave me a SU carb that's suited to the 1100 suposibly ..... its a style i have never seen b4 .. .. I'm thinking i will have to make a bracket for the cables

[ben92]

Yep I sold Jai that about 3 yrs ago
The SU is a HIF type can use any 1 3/4 SU cable brackets or a peice of 20mmx20mm aluminium angle about 90mm long with two hole that go through the mounting bolts then a single hole at one end for the cable on the other angle face if that makes sence. Or something like this

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v668/ben92/MOKEME005.jpg

[TNY666]

oh right ok .. yeah this is good .. looks easy enough to be able to make one ... your picture also reminds me ... on the sc have u just blanked off the dipstick hole with a blot?

[TNY666]

just looking at the carb i have ... is this the normal throttle arm? .. to open the butterfly u have to move it down ... correct me if I'm wrong but the way your carb is set up the cable pulling up opens your butterfly?

http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/2448/img0085eb0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[Gr4H4m]

yep mine has a different arm. I couldn't fit the cables like bens as the trottle arm was catching.

[TNY666]

have been tinkering at work today and have modified the cable bracket from my old su carb set up to fit on the new set up ... the cable will come from the bottom too so hopefully the engine bay wont look to cluttered when im done :)

[moddinmad]

sounds likeSC is the way forward, cant wiat to get one for my MPI.

that dash looks great in the back ground to.

http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/2448/img0085eb0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[ben92]

I actually supply a new dip stick with the kit but yes a bolt with a 3.5mm hole drilled in it then the measuring stick part of old dip stick welded into it at correct height works.
Generally I have the throttle arm on the other side of the carb and it pulls up same arm just has to be cut shorter and sometimes bent a bit to clear the manifold and SC. May hit the fire wall if it is on this side so just check that out, also make sure it has enough clearance to allow for engine movement last thing you want is it to stick when you put your foot down has happened to me before.

[TNY666]

hmm ok .. i will have to check this ... I'm currently waiting my my head to comeback to me (cylinder head that is) before i can start bolting things back on..... i will try chase up Jai for the dipstick too .. but i may still need to get one from Ben .. .. Graham... you fitted a blow of valve? ..does it actually make any sound :)

[Gr4H4m]

the valve was in the kit and its just incase of back-fire so you dont try ans spin the SC backwards.. so no dump valve sound.

[TNY666]

tonight i loosely bolted everything on... its a tight package, much more tighter than i was thinking ... and yeah .. my throttle bracket was a waist of time lol ... .. was trying to figure out how you guys have fitted your throttle cables but i keep getting myself terribly confused :S ..can you please post a picture of your throttle linkage set up? :) .. (if possible)

[Gr4H4m]

will do but might be later this weekend..... the wife has talked me into a rock concert tonight (Gulp)

[TNY666]

Woot woot ! .. lol .. its all good no hurry .. have a good time ;)

[Gr4H4m]

A few pics but hard to get a clear pic.

I took the throttle arm off of the left hand side and bolted it on the right.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/DSCF4167.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/DSCF4166.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/DSCF4168.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/DSCF4172.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/DSCF4173.jpg

[TNY666]

hmm ok .. i sorta see what u have done ... the throttle arm i have is way different and it wont fit on the opposite side as the shaft is a different shape :S ... I'm going to have a go at making a bracket soon .. will let you know how i get on ..

[Gr4H4m]

the throttle connection is like a 1/2 moon shape with a V cut in it to take the cable, standard on a HIF 44 I think

[Gr4H4m]

to update the engine bay shots here a before and after...

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/DSCF3451.jpg

after

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q18/Mini_Addicts_Gr4H4m/DSCF4175.jpg

[TNY666]

is that a rubber glove on your dizzy ? *.,,.* nice engine bay tho .. .. hopefully mine will look as good as yours when its all done

[Gr4H4m]

yep its an old skool UK mod to stop the rain getting in... not something you have to worry about much

[TNY666]

Heya guys, i got my cyclinder head yesterday so intstalation of the supercharger could finally start! :)

But ... tonight when sarting to bold the manifold on i couldnt ... the engine breather was hitting the ajustment bar thingy :/ .... .. my 1100 doesnt seem to have any breathers else where so im guessing putting a blank chest plate in its place wouldnt be a good move..
so yeah ... was just curious as to what you did to get around this problem ...

oh and Ben .. if u see this can i please some contact details for you, i am going to have to get an engine steady from you i think..

Thanks in advance guys,
Geoff

[Gr4H4m]

Hi mate I had the a breather on the tappet chest cover it was just the bent pipe type, not the canister,

I swapped it for the tappet chest cover on the other side I cut the pipe down to a small straight bit was sticking out, then turned it upside down and fitted it to the clutch side. I then ran a hose off of it to an oil catch tank, I didn't want oil all over my nice engine bay I mounted the catch tank to the inner wing on the clutch side.

I also run a pipe from the rocker cover to the catch tank.

[TNY666]

i have replaced the tappet cover with a blank cover so there is no breather. but i have found a rocker cover with a breather pipe on it that im going to use. altho its the only breahter on the engine .. would just one be enough?..

Also on to of my s/c there is a little pipe that sticks straight up ... i have been looking at photos of yours and it appares on your blower it comes out the side... was there something in the kit that does this?..

and one more question ... that diagram on the wireing a few pages back .. on the relay .. does the 86 go to 12v igniton and the 30 to the positive batt ? .. sorry for all these questions ...

[Gr4H4m]

i have replaced the tappet cover with a blank cover so there is no breather. but i have found a rocker cover with a breather pipe on it that im going to use. altho its the only breahter on the engine .. would just one be enough?..


I would chop the canister off or shorten the pipe and then run a rubber hose off of it to and stick it on the clutch side. Mine seems ok like this.



Also on to of my s/c there is a little pipe that sticks straight up ... i have been looking at photos of yours and it appares on your blower it comes out the side... was there something in the kit that does this?..


Got a pic of the pipe? It might be the breather which there is two on the top:

1) one short pipe above the gear cover
2) one pipe from the pulley side. which is joint by rubber hose to below the pulley

If its no 1 then you have to cut it off, drill a hole at the side, put a rivet into the original hole and then tap the bit you have cut off into the fresh hole on the side. Make sure you get all of the aluminium out of the hole, I checked inside the gear cover as well. Whilst I was in there I gave it a good clean out before putting fresh oil in.

you connect all of the breathers on the SC together and then connect to the VAC connection on the SU. (My original pics have them connected to the breather on the carb which is WRONG).


Have you completed the other SC mods, like cutting the lugs off of the top and changing the SC dip stick for the short one?


and one more question ... that diagram on the wireing a few pages back .. on the relay .. does the 86 go to 12v igniton and the 30 to the positive batt ? .. sorry for all these questions ...
[/QUOTE]

hmmm I'm not sure I will pop out and check as I was creating using Bens diag the one in the pic and overlaying the instructions I got with the relay kit.

So hows it going?

[TNY666]

ok .. i might put a brass pipe in the blank chest plate to allow for breathing then .. .. i have done all of the other modifications as far as im aware .. chopped the lugs off and i have made a short dipstick as my kit didnt come with a new one :@

i have attached a pic of the pipe .. seems like #1 to me .. i have pulled it out and will do as you said a bit later tonight . .... ..

Everything else is going well .. i forgot to re connect the fuel line to the pump b4 putting everything on .. so putting that back on was fun .. ..

its all bolted on and i have had it running for a short time .. (just enough to move the front in to the garage)

Altho i am still terribly confused with some thigs :rolleyes:
1: what goes onto the emmisson pipe on the carb?
2: there is a smaller pipe below the emmison pipe what goes here :S .. (also pic attached)
3: what have you done as far as the vac advance on the dizzy?


hehe hopefully once i have all this sorted out its just a matter of setting the timing and driving :D

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391

[Gr4H4m]

i have attached a pic of the pipe .. seems like #1 to me .. i have pulled it out and will do as you said a bit later tonight . .... ..


Yep that is the one I was talking about. You need to re-position it to the side so the bonnet will close :)





Altho i am still terribly confused with some thigs :rolleyes:
1: what goes onto the emmisson pipe on the carb?
2: there is a smaller pipe below the emmison pipe what goes here :S .. (also pic attached)
3: what have you done as far as the vac advance on the dizzy?


hehe hopefully once i have all this sorted out its just a matter of setting the timing and driving :D




I have 4 connections on my carb but they are on the other side to yours.
VAC -
Fuel In
Breather - I think you call this emissions, I have blocked this off with a pipe and a bolt
Overflow : This is in case the fuel bowl overflows. I have run a bit of rubber hose to some thin copper tubing an routed it down to the bottom of the subframe away from the exhaust. (In case it does ever overflow)/


You can connect the dizzy vac up but the curve will be wrong for Forced induction. I know some of the Ausmini guys and Ben run a pulsar dizzy, which seems to suite the conversion, Ben's the man on that.
Its something for your rolling road operator to advise you on when you have the car setup, and the needle modd'd. Mine is timed up without the advance, as it wasn't working anyway, not that I knew. It can be a bit flat off boost but I don't notice it.

P.S you must get it setup on a rolling road or you have a just invested in a piston melter :)

[ben92]

ok .. i might put a brass pipe in the blank chest plate to allow for breathing then .. .. i have done all of the other modifications as far as im aware .. chopped the lugs off and i have made a short dipstick as my kit didnt come with a new one :@


Altho i am still terribly confused with some thigs :rolleyes:
1: what goes onto the emmisson pipe on the carb?
2: there is a smaller pipe below the emmison pipe what goes here :S .. (also pic attached)
3: what have you done as far as the vac advance on the dizzy?




391

Hi you will definately need two breathers so add one in the tappet cover somehow the older sort of cover with just the pipe is easiest.
The pipe on your carby looks like the float bowl vent so as Gr4h4m has done just put a pipe on it and run it down out of the way. The top one is for PVc emmissions so can probably just block that one off.
Wiring yep 30 to 12V+ battery 85 12V+ ignition 87 to SC and 86 to earth
Just PM me for my details cheers

[TNY666]

Thanks for that guys .. every thing wired up , plumbed up. just awating the exhuast system from the lcb's back and a airfilter, then ready for the dyno ^^ Can't wait .. i'll post the results here.

392 b4

393 now

[Gr4H4m]

man thats a great install. very neat, love it I think the SC12 looks great under a mini bonnet. I bet you are well pleased, makes my engine bay look very busy, but I presume that's a round nose for you.

Cant wait to see the power you are going to produce, let us know and what its like to drive. Can you also post the engine spec so we can compare.

G

[TNY666]

Yeah im stoaked so far ... there are lots of pipes and wires that do look cluttery but im guessing can be sorted out in the near future..

i have no idea what the 1100 was putting out b4 this set up as i have never had it on a dyno

[Gr4H4m]

I think it great mate doesn't look cluttered to me top job... I think a standard 1100 is about 45 at the fly from the factory..

[TNY666]

sounds about right .. its got electronic ignition too, not sure how much this effects it but it certainly allows for trouble free wet weather driving

[Gr4H4m]

Well the car is at SDminis.co.uk I went out to see Steve tonight in the mini as I hit a massive pot hole in the jag and broke the O2 sensor and I'm waiting for a new one.

anyway, went out for a blast and it popped through the carb, strange... went to see Steve and on the way home massive pop and then cut out. The backfire valve is stuck open, so it wont run properly... so its tucked up at SDminis.co.uk

[Steve]

It was tucked up in bed for the night, in the unit. It is now ready to go back home ( the little dirty stop out ).

[TNY666]

i have a problem ...... after running for about 2 miniuts the sc belt was crawling of the sc pully .. it only moved along 1 groove but it was still folding the edge of the belt :s .. everything looks straight when bolted up, have u had any such trouble?

[Gr4H4m]

no but I did line it up with the bottom pulley as I think there is an extra groove on the sc.

[TNY666]

yeah the sc dies have one groove more than the pully but the belt is wanting to move accross and of the edge of the sc pully by one groove .. is it possible to space the s/c pully out at all?

[Gr4H4m]

mm strange mine is ok. Have you put a straight edge on the pulles to check they are in line. a couple of ideas

It could be the bottom pulley, I had to clean some paint out of the inside of the pulley before it would fully engage all of the way onto the crank.

Do you still have the standard pulley on the SC, still with the clutch?

Ben might be better to answer.

[TNY666]

hmm.. the fan belt lines up perfectly so i'm guessing the bottom pulley is on fine .. yeah its still the standard clutch on the sc.. was looking at how to remove the pulley from the sc but i have no idea and cant see how :s .. i phoned the guy i brought it off and he too is baffled ..

[Gr4H4m]

strange so its if the SC needs to be further over? the pulley on the SC has a clutch in it. the guys on Ausmini have taken the clutch off and used them as a fixed pulley.

[TNY666]

oh right ok .. so its possible to remove it then ^^ .. i'll have to try and ask them or someone that knows how to remove the electromagnetic clutch .. it only needs to be move by about 1mm

[Gr4H4m]

for 1mm can you not re-jiggle the bolts that hold it on to make sure its all of the way over?

[TNY666]

every thing is fairy snug so it wont move across enough .. unless i was to file some meat of where the manifold studs go thru .. but i don't really want to do that :s .. i have just been looking at some pictures of your charger and many other on google and it seems you have a different clutch set up .. yours has the " + " thing on it .. and it looks like the grooves go right to the edge of the pulley .. (i have attached more photos lol) .. of the clutch on my blower .. as you can hopefully see there is a bit of meat on the edge of the pulley ... im pondering on the idea of getting an extra groove machined into it .. i think .. .... i Think .. that will mean the belt will be then straight with the bottom pulley

394

[Gr4H4m]

yours is an SC12? I think the + is just a cover that is held on with a nut to that middle bolt. but my pulley does go all of the way to the edge. I'm away at the mo or I could get you some pics.

[TNY666]

its deffinatley a sc12 .. its stamped onto the casting ... everything else is identical to yours apart from the clutch pulley. .. i cant find any superchargers witht the same clutch as mine ....

[Deano]

Is the pulley the right way around ?

[TNY666]

fairly sure it would be impossible to put it on any other way... possibly an older or newer design of what seems to be "normal"

[ben92]

The SC12's have two types of pulleys one with the + and the other same as yours. Theres is no difference to the pulley location so that should not be at fault. If it is only 1mm out that should not make any real difference over the span from crank to SC. Is the belt done up nice and tight? or the pulley hasn't got any damage on the grooves one guy who has a kit fitted had a problem of the belt falling off when the engine was stopped and turned out that the outter edge of the SC pulley was slightly bent and would flick the belt off. Never heard of the belt climbing up the SC pulley before.

[TNY666]

Mmm yeah .. i tightend it fairly tight and the belt still wants to move along the sc pulley .. looking at it again the belt looks straight going of the top of the sc pulley to crank pully but it is on a slight angle across the tension pulley and toward the bottom ..

[Gr4H4m]

which way does it want to come off towards the SC or the RAD? the only other thing that you haven't checked is the crank pulley, got to be worth a look.

[TNY666]

it moves to wards the rad side.. .. i will take a look at the crank pulley but the fan belt is straight so i think its most prob something up the top .. .. going to garage now to look more closer at other things now .. will let you know if i do find anything .. but .. im not holding my breath lol

[Gr4H4m]

good luck

[Gr4H4m]

well did a bit of work on the car today. It had been a bit hesitant on light throttle lately and I had a couple of backfires through the carb.

I stripped the carb and it was full of junk, so I gave it a good clean out. fitted some new rockers, better breather tube on the SC. replaced all of the SC breather pipes, and found a tear/deformed SC gasket, so I made some new ones.

Got most of it back together today, just a bit of finishing off to do. not sure about the rockers clearing the cover...

[TNY666]

Kool hopefully it will be going better than before when you are finished :)..

I took my charger off and took it to work on Friday and removed the clutch assembly using the hydraulic puller .. .. lucky i did the pulley bearing was a bit gritty so i am going to replace it... also looking at how i can space the pulley out a little .. so hopefully i might have it back on me car sometime next week .. depends on bearing availability i guess ...

Graham .... are you still using standard fuel pump of have u gone to electric?

[Gr4H4m]

my car was fitted with an electric SU fuel pump. As it happens this was on its way out so I fitted a facet low pressure road pump I think 2-3psi. I have a regulator that the rolling road set to 2 PSI, so it looks like it doesn't need much pressure. I have also fitted an in-line glass filter before the carb,+ the facet has one before the pump, but I wanted to be able to see it before the carb I didn't want any bits getting into the SC, for the same reason I put all of the breathers to a catch tank.


So are you going refit the pulley without the clutch? Would mate things a bit more simple and no electrics to fail. love to see some pics with it apart.

[TNY666]

.. hmm ok .. u don't happen to know what psi the standard mechanical pumps are ? .... i do intend on putting the sc back together with the clutch as all the drive is put thru the spline on the clutch bit .. but looking at it it would be possible to bolt the clutch to the pulley and remove all the wiring... i left the charger at work on Fri so i will have to wait till Mon to take some pictures of it pulled apart if you want

[Gr4H4m]

hows the car going?

[TNY666]

took some pics of the clutch assembly apart .. and i have managed to space the pulley and clutch out somewhat ^^ .. (after been told by Toyota that it is impossible :)) .... i used two piston rings from a 50cc chain saw :D spaced the clutch to so its all working as norm have bolted it up and it looks like the belt is now straight .. but batt went flat so i couldn't turn it over to see if its fixed :/.

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399
397

[Gr4H4m]

looks like that should do the job. great work and thanks for the pics, cant wait to see the figures, let us know how you get on.

[Gr4H4m]

cars gone a bit sick. After some basic stuff that Steve and I checked I ended going around in circles, its either fuelling or timing, and both are harder to check due to the supercharger, we don't have the timing figure + we think the dizzy is a bit suspect and the timing marker was jumping, and the fuelling you kinda need a RR..

I have got the dizzy off of the old engine, which feels ok, and some spares for the carb.

So its off to the wizards at A&B, to diagnose, who have kindly squeezed me in, hopefully it will be sorted for the trip later this week...

[Gr4H4m]

well so far the report from A&B... The dizzy was faulty the timing was bouncing all over the place, lucky my spare was is ok condition. The jet in the carb was stuck. both now fixed.... but still lean between 1500 and 2500, which was down to me upgrading to the high lift rockers. If I had known the dizzy and carb were in the state they were I wouldn't of installed the rockers, but one of those things.. They are going to mod the carb needle to sort the lean problem.

Those guys are top even when you try and fool them by upgrading stuff without telling them :)

[Steve]

Glad to here that they have got to the bottom of the problems. Hopfully it will be all ok for Friday.

[Gr4H4m]

took some pics of the clutch assembly apart .. and i have managed to space the pulley and clutch out somewhat ^^ .. (after been told by Toyota that it is impossible :)) .... i used two piston rings from a 50cc chain saw :D spaced the clutch to so its all working as norm have bolted it up and it looks like the belt is now straight .. but batt went flat so i couldn't turn it over to see if its fixed :/.


Hows the car going is it all sorted? :confused:

[Deano]

so whats the pony`s ????:)

[TNY666]

HAha .. nearly! ... have been busy recently but trying to put as much time towards mini as possible .. well the pulley side of things is sorted .. no more issues there! :D
Now just sorting out pod filter pipes .. going to get one made to bring the filter to the front of the engine bay to collect as much air as pos.

Also having issues with choke and throttle cables again, hopefully this will be sorted out tomorrow as I'm going to see an engineer (i given up).
its been a very slow build for me, but its getting closer as I'm starting to sort out smaller things such as position of windscreen washer bottle (rapidly running out of space ^^).

I am aiming to have it all ready for the mini Nats in October 24th-27th, so all going well will have lots of pictures and some specs... providing i don't have to many teething probs with it.

[ben92]

well so far the report from A&B... The dizzy was faulty the timing was bouncing all over the place, lucky my spare was is ok condition. The jet in the carb was stuck. both now fixed.... but still lean between 1500 and 2500, which was down to me upgrading to the high lift rockers. If I had known the dizzy and carb were in the state they were I wouldn't of installed the rockers, but one of those things.. They are going to mod the carb needle to sort the lean problem.

That will make it run a little lean every time:)
Good to hear you have it fixed again

[Gr4H4m]

yep looking forward to the track day on Sat.. and then the winter upgrade to megajolt. :)

[apbellamy]

This is a really good project. Really interesting read.

I have to admit I'm a little inspired and, well, I'm copying!

I have a SC12 on it's way from New Zealand. It will be getting stuck on a 1293 MG Metro motor with a Kent 276 Cam and stage 3 head. And then fitted into the '78 clubby that I am restoring (when I get round to starting it again).

Thanks for sorting my forum access out.